Stef and Matt

Well, we have been in the Galapagos for about 3.5 weeks and I have to say, it is as amazing as everyone says. The wildlife on land and in the sea is pretty phenomenal- and the animals are unafraid of people, so they will swim or walk right up to you. So far we´ve seen giant turtles (absolutely amazing- our guide said that the giant turtles of the Galapagos were Steven Spielberg´s inspiration for ET- which makes me like ET more), blue footed boobies, red footed boobies, lava gulls, flamingos (so cool!), Galapagos penguins (the only tropical penguins), dolphins, sharks, angel fish, sea lions, yellow finches, sally lightfoot crabs, and chocolate chip sea stars.

We´ve also seen giant spiders (the size of dessert plates), black rats, fire ants and mosquitos that will swarm you if you aren´t doused in DEET. Ah yes, there are two sides to the Galapagos- the gorgeous beaches, snorkeling and wildlife that you see when you do the tours and the more challenging conditions and work of conservation and returning the islands to their original state.

I never knew that so many invasive species of plants and animals had been introduced to the Galapagos- but the impact is unmistakable. Jatun Sacha, the volunteer station where we are working, is located on an old farm that has been taken over by mora (blackberry bushes) and maracuya (passion fruit trees). These plants choke out the endemic plants on the island, eliminating food sources for many of the animals. Since the Galapagos is a tiny system in which the impact of changes to the plants and animals are easily seen, it is very clear what a strong and negative impact these invasive species have on the plants and animals here.

In addition, the animals and insects that have been introduced to the islands through human contact (black rats and fire ants to n ame two) are predators of the animals. They also make life on the volunteer station interesting- nothing like chasing off rats at night to keep you alert! And Matt has learned a lot about moving giant spiders out of our room without hurting them (blowing on them works quite well).

• Matt adds: Check out Last Chance to See by Douglas Adams to learn more about the fragility of island ecology and how difficult it is to conserve island-based species. (Yes, he wrote The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy, and Last Chance to See is pretty humorous, but he wrote it with an accomplished zoologist – it does explain these dynamics really well)

We´ve felt very fortunate to see so much more of the islands and the work that goes into conserving these beautiful places- and to have a very personal sense of the commitment and work that it entails. Nothing like cutting down mora bushes with a machete (a large portion of the work that is needed here) to remind you of how hard reforestation is!

Matt has pictures to post of both our tours (a day trip around San Cristobal, and a 4 day cruise of the four inhabited islands- San Cristobal, Isabela, Floreana, and Santa Cruz ) and our work on the volunteer station. So keep an eye out for sea lions and giant spiders!

In terms of travel plans, we are shifting things around a bit to allow for more time to travel in mainland Ecuador before our visa runs out. So we will be in the Galapagos for another 2 weeks, then head back to Quito, Ecuador and begin traveling south to Riobamba and Cuenca before landing in Arequipa, Peru. There is so much to see and it just seems like more and more places appeal to us as we travel! All in all, a good problem to have.

Thanks to everyone for your comments and emails- we love hearing from you! Keep them coming- and just remember, we´d love to have visitors!!

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